Stone is a traditional yet high-end choice for countertops. The natural look of stone can be unique and work beautifully into an interior design. The material can have many colors and variations depending on how it was formed in the earth.
Granite is the most well-known stone used for counters. It is very hard (scratch resistant) and can stand up to heat from hot pans. However, since it is a natural stone, it is porous and can stain (extent varies by the specific type). Some stones can even be etched by acidic foods or cleaners. A sealer must be re-applied at least once per year (depending on wear). Mild detergent and water is the recommended cleaning agent. Harsh or abrasive cleaners may damage the sealer and stone underneath. Repairs can be difficult to do and require a costly stone finishing professional.
Cost is about $80-120 per square foot for fabrication and installation. Many local stone fabricators have preferred suppliers who can offer warehouse viewings of slab materials.
View some photos of kitchen counters in our online gallery. Contact our office for recommended stone fabricators in the South Bay Area, or to talk about a project you are considering.
Thursday, February 11, 2010
Tuesday, February 9, 2010
"Solid Surface" Counter Tops
“Solid surface” materials, with their many colors and pattern choices, are a popular choice for kitchen and bathroom countertops. The material is a hard type of plastic that is formed into slabs of varying thicknesses. Their soft smoothness is appealing to the touch and the eye. This material can mimic the look of other choices such as stone, cement and quartz. Seamless joints and integrated sinks are also another plus.
The most popular solid surface is Corian, manufactured by DuPont. It is an acrylic polymer and comes in over 100 color/pattern options, with several product lines. The material color and pattern run throughout the thickness, making it possible to create any edge treatment that you desire. This also helps with maintenance and repair. The material is soft, so cuts and dents may happen. Light damage can be removed with a “scotch-brite” pad and abrasive cleaner. If any significant damage is done, like a burn from a hot pan, a plug can be cut out, replaced with new material, glued and sanded. A seamless surface is once again seen. The surface is non-porous, meaning stains do not penetrate and can resist bacteria growth with proper cleaning. No sealers are needed.
Corian is said to generally be about 30% lower in cost than stone countertops, around $60-90 per square foot for fabrication and installation. Price will depend on type of application, edge treatment and color/pattern choice.
The DuPont Corian lines and the glue used to install it also offer qualification as “low-emitting material” and “recycled content” for U.S. Green Building Council’s LEED program( Leadership in Energy & Environmental Design).
See the various choices of DuPont Corian here.
The most popular solid surface is Corian, manufactured by DuPont. It is an acrylic polymer and comes in over 100 color/pattern options, with several product lines. The material color and pattern run throughout the thickness, making it possible to create any edge treatment that you desire. This also helps with maintenance and repair. The material is soft, so cuts and dents may happen. Light damage can be removed with a “scotch-brite” pad and abrasive cleaner. If any significant damage is done, like a burn from a hot pan, a plug can be cut out, replaced with new material, glued and sanded. A seamless surface is once again seen. The surface is non-porous, meaning stains do not penetrate and can resist bacteria growth with proper cleaning. No sealers are needed.
Corian is said to generally be about 30% lower in cost than stone countertops, around $60-90 per square foot for fabrication and installation. Price will depend on type of application, edge treatment and color/pattern choice.
The DuPont Corian lines and the glue used to install it also offer qualification as “low-emitting material” and “recycled content” for U.S. Green Building Council’s LEED program( Leadership in Energy & Environmental Design).
See the various choices of DuPont Corian here.
Monday, February 1, 2010
Tankless Water Heaters...Are They For You?
The popularity of Tankless Water Heaters has risen sharply in recent years. With manufacturers siting energy savings and "endless" hot water, many old and new homes are now using them. Replacing a water heater is a popular and basic upgrade to a home, so many of our clients will consider the difference between Tankless and traditional Tank water heaters. Here is an outline of the major characterisitcs of the Tankless units:
• Tankless water heaters provide an “endless” flow of hot water. This means that you don’t have to keep track of who’s used the hot water before you! Depending on the unit size, this flow can provide for multiple outlets (shower, sink, dishwasher, laundry, etc).
• Tankless water heaters only turn on when water is flowing and needed. This means that the unit is not operating when the homeowner is away. With most units expecting a lifespan of 25 years, this will translate into huge utility savings for the homeowner.
• Due to the technology and manufacture of tankless water heaters, safety is another benefit. Sealed combustion chambers, sealed exhaust, accurate temperature control, no pilot lights, and sleek unit design provide a safer home environment.
• Tankless water heaters are also popular in the “green building” movement, due to their long life, smaller design, use of readily recyclable materials (copper, stainless steel, aluminum) and low emissions.
• The compact design of tankless water heaters also results in less floor space required and ability to locate units closer to water fixtures (for less heat loss and faster hot water availability). Recess boxes are also available to hide unit in a wall, with only a door and trim showing!
• Digital technology allows for precise temperature management, with ability to install wireless remotes to adjust temp for each user’s preference!
Words of Caution:
• Units that are on interior walls or in small spaces need to be a “direct vent” type. These units have both an exhaust outlet (needs to be double wall stainless steel) and an intake inlet (can be Galvanized, ABS, or PVC pipe) running to the exterior of home.
• In most applications (check with local codes & inspectors), interior mounted units need to have a condensate line run to a nearby sewer line. This is due to condensate that can result from exhaust gas reacting with vent pipe material.
• Tankless water heaters only work with hot water circulation pump systems if proper steps and calculations are taken. If pump is too small, it will not create enough flow for unit to activate. If pump is too large, it can stress mechanical parts of unit AND cause unit to fire for longer periods of time (eliminating energy savings). Other options are to locate unit closer to demand area, or to use multiple units located in different parts of building.
Product Feedback:
• Rinnai Inc. has been in business since 1930. Their units have been used in:
o “Habitat for Humanity Builders Blitz” in Georgia and Mississippi,
o Sunset Magazine Demonstration House in Alamo, CA
o California Sustainable Task Green-Belt Idea Home in Menlo Park, CA.
• Rinnai offers a 12 year limited warranty on the heat exchanger and a 6 year warranty on all other parts.
• Noritz Inc. has been in tankless water heater business since 1951. They offer a 12 year warranty on heat exchanger and a 5 year warranty on all other parts. A number of units have been installed by Carlock Plumbing (one of our preferred sub contractors) with good feedback on reliability and performance.
• Takagi Inc. has been doing tankless heaters since 1952. They offer a 10 year warranty on the heat exchanger and a 5 year warranty on all other parts. They have been said to offer very good technical and customer support, along with reliable units with great performance.
• COST: Range for a standard residential home is $2500-$4500. This wide range is due to variables in where the unit is installed. This can dictate new or larger gas line runs, re-configuring of water piping and how venting is run.
Lower cost variables:
o Outside (no venting materials)
o Close to gas meter (less gas line labor)
o New construction (lines pre-run & included in new work)
o Less re-working of copper supply and output (from existing unit)
Tankless Water heaters, when properly installed, can be a great energy conscious and convenient feature for your home. Contact Carlock Plumbing (information at top of page) or our office with questions about getting your own unit. Let us know if you are looking to integrate a tankless unit into a more extensive remodel.
• Tankless water heaters provide an “endless” flow of hot water. This means that you don’t have to keep track of who’s used the hot water before you! Depending on the unit size, this flow can provide for multiple outlets (shower, sink, dishwasher, laundry, etc).
• Tankless water heaters only turn on when water is flowing and needed. This means that the unit is not operating when the homeowner is away. With most units expecting a lifespan of 25 years, this will translate into huge utility savings for the homeowner.
• Due to the technology and manufacture of tankless water heaters, safety is another benefit. Sealed combustion chambers, sealed exhaust, accurate temperature control, no pilot lights, and sleek unit design provide a safer home environment.
• Tankless water heaters are also popular in the “green building” movement, due to their long life, smaller design, use of readily recyclable materials (copper, stainless steel, aluminum) and low emissions.
• The compact design of tankless water heaters also results in less floor space required and ability to locate units closer to water fixtures (for less heat loss and faster hot water availability). Recess boxes are also available to hide unit in a wall, with only a door and trim showing!
• Digital technology allows for precise temperature management, with ability to install wireless remotes to adjust temp for each user’s preference!
Words of Caution:
• Units that are on interior walls or in small spaces need to be a “direct vent” type. These units have both an exhaust outlet (needs to be double wall stainless steel) and an intake inlet (can be Galvanized, ABS, or PVC pipe) running to the exterior of home.
• In most applications (check with local codes & inspectors), interior mounted units need to have a condensate line run to a nearby sewer line. This is due to condensate that can result from exhaust gas reacting with vent pipe material.
• Tankless water heaters only work with hot water circulation pump systems if proper steps and calculations are taken. If pump is too small, it will not create enough flow for unit to activate. If pump is too large, it can stress mechanical parts of unit AND cause unit to fire for longer periods of time (eliminating energy savings). Other options are to locate unit closer to demand area, or to use multiple units located in different parts of building.
Product Feedback:
• Rinnai Inc. has been in business since 1930. Their units have been used in:
o “Habitat for Humanity Builders Blitz” in Georgia and Mississippi,
o Sunset Magazine Demonstration House in Alamo, CA
o California Sustainable Task Green-Belt Idea Home in Menlo Park, CA.
• Rinnai offers a 12 year limited warranty on the heat exchanger and a 6 year warranty on all other parts.
• Noritz Inc. has been in tankless water heater business since 1951. They offer a 12 year warranty on heat exchanger and a 5 year warranty on all other parts. A number of units have been installed by Carlock Plumbing (one of our preferred sub contractors) with good feedback on reliability and performance.
• Takagi Inc. has been doing tankless heaters since 1952. They offer a 10 year warranty on the heat exchanger and a 5 year warranty on all other parts. They have been said to offer very good technical and customer support, along with reliable units with great performance.
• COST: Range for a standard residential home is $2500-$4500. This wide range is due to variables in where the unit is installed. This can dictate new or larger gas line runs, re-configuring of water piping and how venting is run.
Lower cost variables:
o Outside (no venting materials)
o Close to gas meter (less gas line labor)
o New construction (lines pre-run & included in new work)
o Less re-working of copper supply and output (from existing unit)
Tankless Water heaters, when properly installed, can be a great energy conscious and convenient feature for your home. Contact Carlock Plumbing (information at top of page) or our office with questions about getting your own unit. Let us know if you are looking to integrate a tankless unit into a more extensive remodel.
Old Homes and Bad Electrical Connections
The housing stock in the San Francisco Bay Area is quite varied. Our jobs have been located in houses ranging from turn-of-the-century Victorians to modern townhouses or condominiums. This difference in ages will undoubtedly lead to an assortment of previous construction practices that we see.
A majority of our business is to upgrade old homes to modern standards. When we open up walls, we are able to see how the last builders did things. A particular area that has come to our attention is the electrical systems in late 1950s and early 1960s homes. A common practice of connecting wires then has been shown to possibly cause problems further down the road.
Residential electricity is AC or “alternating current”. This means that the electricity will go on and off about 60 times a second. Back in the time period mentioned, a wire connection was either simply “crimped” (pressed together with a wire inside) or the wires were first twisted before being crimped inside the connection. Both ways used electrical tape to finish the job. The problem with only a crimp is that, because of the alternating current, the wire will expand and contract over time. This can loosen the connection, and if done enough, the wire can heat up and possibly “arc”. An “arc” is where electricity jumps across any space, in this instance, within a connection.
This situation can lead to power loss at the least and a fire hazard at the most. We have seen extreme examples where an area within the wall was burned. This is by no means a normal occurrence, but being mindful of the possibility is important. New electrical connections are done by tightening a nut, ensuring a strong fit and bypassing this problem.
A few things to look out for:
• Warm wall outlet, switch or light outlet. Dimmer switches are meant to run warm and are of no concern
• Flickering lights
• Appliance motors running slow
• Coffee makers or toasters not heating quickly
• Burning smell of plastic or wood
Places to look for a problem:
• The first light outlet closest to the meter/main (where power comes to the house from the street) or sub-panel (where breakers are inside home).
• When using an aftermarket wall heater, check outlet closest to meter/main or sub-panel.
• In the sub panel, check for warm or hot circuit breakers by touching them on the front side.
This information and first-hand knowledge was provided to us by Alan Woertink of Woertink Electric. His contact information is at the top of this blog. Feel free to contact him regarding any electrical concerns or repairs. Please call us regarding any other “old house” issues you may have. We have been repairing and upgrading homes since 1994.
A majority of our business is to upgrade old homes to modern standards. When we open up walls, we are able to see how the last builders did things. A particular area that has come to our attention is the electrical systems in late 1950s and early 1960s homes. A common practice of connecting wires then has been shown to possibly cause problems further down the road.
Residential electricity is AC or “alternating current”. This means that the electricity will go on and off about 60 times a second. Back in the time period mentioned, a wire connection was either simply “crimped” (pressed together with a wire inside) or the wires were first twisted before being crimped inside the connection. Both ways used electrical tape to finish the job. The problem with only a crimp is that, because of the alternating current, the wire will expand and contract over time. This can loosen the connection, and if done enough, the wire can heat up and possibly “arc”. An “arc” is where electricity jumps across any space, in this instance, within a connection.
This situation can lead to power loss at the least and a fire hazard at the most. We have seen extreme examples where an area within the wall was burned. This is by no means a normal occurrence, but being mindful of the possibility is important. New electrical connections are done by tightening a nut, ensuring a strong fit and bypassing this problem.
A few things to look out for:
• Warm wall outlet, switch or light outlet. Dimmer switches are meant to run warm and are of no concern
• Flickering lights
• Appliance motors running slow
• Coffee makers or toasters not heating quickly
• Burning smell of plastic or wood
Places to look for a problem:
• The first light outlet closest to the meter/main (where power comes to the house from the street) or sub-panel (where breakers are inside home).
• When using an aftermarket wall heater, check outlet closest to meter/main or sub-panel.
• In the sub panel, check for warm or hot circuit breakers by touching them on the front side.
This information and first-hand knowledge was provided to us by Alan Woertink of Woertink Electric. His contact information is at the top of this blog. Feel free to contact him regarding any electrical concerns or repairs. Please call us regarding any other “old house” issues you may have. We have been repairing and upgrading homes since 1994.
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